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equipment:3d_printer:fusematic [2020/02/07 02:03] – created 1equipment:3d_printer:fusematic [2022/05/29 16:01] (current) – external edit 127.0.0.1
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   * Power switch is at the right rear of Fusematic   * Power switch is at the right rear of Fusematic
-  * NEVER pull on bowden PTFE tube without FULLY depressing blue push-to-fit ring.+  * NEVER pull on Bowden PTFE tube without FULLY depressing blue push-to-fit ring.
   * Bed is Borosilicate. This means you don’t need glue (spray or stick) if using PLA+, just a reasonably clean bed   * Bed is Borosilicate. This means you don’t need glue (spray or stick) if using PLA+, just a reasonably clean bed
   * When adding/removing/changing filament, have the hotend fully heated before/while doing that work.   * When adding/removing/changing filament, have the hotend fully heated before/while doing that work.
   * Let the bed cool COMPLETELY before trying to remove your print. The print should pop off easily. If not then try: (a) heat bed to 70 C (b) try to twist (lightly) part as it warms toward 70 C and/or use scraper, (c) let bed cool completely and retry.    * Let the bed cool COMPLETELY before trying to remove your print. The print should pop off easily. If not then try: (a) heat bed to 70 C (b) try to twist (lightly) part as it warms toward 70 C and/or use scraper, (c) let bed cool completely and retry. 
   * The heated bed sits on a floating metal triangle which can be bent out of level easily if you apply too much force in trying to remove your print.  Do NOT try to muscle off your print and de-level the bed. If the print is still stuck - hold the bed firmly with one hand so it doesn’t move while you try scraping/rotating off your print.    * The heated bed sits on a floating metal triangle which can be bent out of level easily if you apply too much force in trying to remove your print.  Do NOT try to muscle off your print and de-level the bed. If the print is still stuck - hold the bed firmly with one hand so it doesn’t move while you try scraping/rotating off your print. 
-  * (again) NEVER pull on the bowden PTFE tube without FULLY depressing blue push-to-fit (PTF) ring! If you don’t, you could bend the metal teeth inside the PTF connector and then one has to buy a new one.+  * (again) NEVER pull on the Bowden PTFE tube without FULLY depressing blue push-to-fit (PTF) ring! If you don’t, you could bend the metal teeth inside the PTF connector and then one has to buy a new one.
   * All stepper motors are dampened with cork and/or rubber (but not all screws are dampened). The printer is pretty quiet while running. If you notice louder sounds - please notify.    * All stepper motors are dampened with cork and/or rubber (but not all screws are dampened). The printer is pretty quiet while running. If you notice louder sounds - please notify. 
-  * The z-axis “floats” on a delrin nut (or anything else in the way) so you can’t “crash” the hotend into the bed or your print. The machine normally runs quietly so listen while z-homing. If the stepper motor is trying to turn but can’t because the bed is floating on something in the way with the z-nut is hitting it’s lower limit it will make a loud sound. Emergency stop or turn off printer if that happens. +  * The z-axis “floats” on a Delrin nut (or anything else in the way) so you can’t “crash” the hotend into the bed or your print. The machine normally runs quietly so listen while z-homing. If the stepper motor is trying to turn but can’t because the bed is floating on something in the way with the z-nut is hitting it’s lower limit it will make a loud sound. Emergency stop or turn off printer if that happens. 
   * The extra “three-wide” AL extrusions make the Fusematic very stiff but also very heavy. Be careful if moving it. The wooden base for the LCD screen is only held in place by the weight of the printer.    * The extra “three-wide” AL extrusions make the Fusematic very stiff but also very heavy. Be careful if moving it. The wooden base for the LCD screen is only held in place by the weight of the printer. 
   * **Heights:** Z-axis worm gear is at pitch built for high precision. Zaxis+stepper = 1600 steps per mm = .0625 mm per 100 steps . Some layer heights in (mm) with integer steps are: 0.100, 0.125, 0.1375, 0.150, 0.1875,  0.2, …    * **Heights:** Z-axis worm gear is at pitch built for high precision. Zaxis+stepper = 1600 steps per mm = .0625 mm per 100 steps . Some layer heights in (mm) with integer steps are: 0.100, 0.125, 0.1375, 0.150, 0.1875,  0.2, … 
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   * Did you check that the hotend is OFF when done?    * Did you check that the hotend is OFF when done? 
  
 +[[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1NEAvsB22B2zD8amibFVrYbj3hTUHHP7IRRGikqo-L18/edit#|Manufacturer's (Maker's Tool Works) Operation Guide]]
equipment/3d_printer/fusematic.1581040989.txt.gz · Last modified: 2022/05/29 16:01 (external edit)