Power switch is at the right rear of Fusematic
NEVER pull on Bowden PTFE tube without FULLY depressing blue push-to-fit ring.
Bed is Borosilicate. This means you don’t need glue (spray or stick) if using PLA+, just a reasonably clean bed
When adding/removing/changing filament, have the hotend fully heated before/while doing that work.
Let the bed cool COMPLETELY before trying to remove your print. The print should pop off easily. If not then try: (a) heat bed to 70 C (b) try to twist (lightly) part as it warms toward 70 C and/or use scraper, © let bed cool completely and retry.
The heated bed sits on a floating metal triangle which can be bent out of level easily if you apply too much force in trying to remove your print. Do NOT try to muscle off your print and de-level the bed. If the print is still stuck - hold the bed firmly with one hand so it doesn’t move while you try scraping/rotating off your print.
(again) NEVER pull on the Bowden PTFE tube without FULLY depressing blue push-to-fit (PTF) ring! If you don’t, you could bend the metal teeth inside the PTF connector and then one has to buy a new one.
All stepper motors are dampened with cork and/or rubber (but not all screws are dampened). The printer is pretty quiet while running. If you notice louder sounds - please notify.
The z-axis “floats” on a Delrin nut (or anything else in the way) so you can’t “crash” the hotend into the bed or your print. The machine normally runs quietly so listen while z-homing. If the stepper motor is trying to turn but can’t because the bed is floating on something in the way with the z-nut is hitting it’s lower limit it will make a loud sound. Emergency stop or turn off printer if that happens.
The extra “three-wide” AL extrusions make the Fusematic very stiff but also very heavy. Be careful if moving it. The wooden base for the LCD screen is only held in place by the weight of the printer.
Heights: Z-axis worm gear is at pitch built for high precision. Zaxis+stepper = 1600 steps per mm = .0625 mm per 100 steps . Some layer heights in (mm) with integer steps are: 0.100, 0.125, 0.1375, 0.150, 0.1875, 0.2, …
Have hotend at extrusion temps to remove filament after your print, but make sure that hotend is OFF (T=0 C) after removing filament.
If nobody has muscled off a print, you shouldn’t need to relevel. If you want to check or relevel the bed - the easiest way is to check if a piece of paper slides with a bit of friction between the nozzle and the bed with both nozzle and bed at printing temperatures. Start at middle back (X=100,Y=200,Z=0) , then middle front (100, 0, 0), then (0, 0, 0), then (200, 0, 0) and finally one check in the middle (100,100,0). All coordinates are approximate. Watch out for hotbed clips that might “float” the z-axis higher.
The power supply is far over the capacity needed. There is no problem heating both bed and hotend at the same time. I programmed the firmware to limit max hotend temp to 230 C.
Did you check that the hotend is OFF when done?